Tasty and Meatless | Restaurant Features

The Shanghai Bistro in Waikiki is poised to enter the highest echelon of vegetarian dining. Tucked into the Discovery Bay Center, this surprisingly large restaurant houses a beautiful collection of Asian antiques, punctuated with contemporary lighting and the sounds of gurgling water. Teak floors cohere the décor for a very modern appeal. Inventive and exquisitely presented dishes fulfill the promises hinted at by the interior design. The owner Li May Tang and the executive chef Chih-Chieh Chang share a commitment to gourmet Asian vegetarian cuisine that will insure success.

Unlike many restaurants, the menu at Shanghai Bistro lists meatless dishes under a separate heading. Divided into Appetizers, Salads, Soups, and Entrees, the menu selections make extensive use of vegetarian meat analogues in addition to tofu. At $5.00 each, the appetizers are very reasonably priced for gourmet fare. Consisting of white potato, taro, and yam tempura, the Rainbow Bistro Potato with dipping sauces and the cheese-topped Vegetarian Crabmeat Dip with its crunchy lavosh crackers can easily whet the appetites of three diners. The hot and creamy dip tastes extraordinarily like its fishy counterpart. It does contain mayonnaise and can be served with a vegetarian version upon request. (Certain dishes are prepared in advance, so it’s best to request these kinds of changes when making reservations.) For an indulgent tasting little something on a stick, the Vegetarian Bacon Tofu Roll combines lightly fried tofu wrapped in veggie bacon with a sweetened shoyu, mirin, and rice wine dipping sauce.

One of two salad choices, the Vegetarian Thai Papaya Salad is a delicately flavored vision in pastels. Finely shredded green papaya and carrots are married with cilantro, peanuts, and bits of crisp wonton topped with a flavorful faux ham. The barely sweet light citrus dressing is flecked with enough red chilies to produce a full range of flavors with each bite.

If soup is your passion, this menu offers two. For a fresh emerald green tonic, try the Vegetarian Ground Spinach Tofu Soup. On its own the soup would make a nice lunch; for a light, but satisfying dinner, add the Vegetarian Bacon Tofu Roll or other appetizer.

All meatless entrees at Shanghai Bistro are vegetarian renditions of meat-based dishes. Seven dishes, as various as Vegetarian Hamburger and Vegetarian Italian Shrimp Pasta, complete the list. The Vegetarian Kung Pao Chicken is fiery hot with barely crisp red, yellow, and green bell peppers, celery, scallions, and peanuts. Although Chef Chang prefers to create his own veggie meats, this dish contains a dehydrated chicken product which absorbs the spicy Kung Pao sauce and imparts a contrasting chewy texture. The Vegetarian Butter Fish features a high quality analogue familiar to many of the Honolulu meatless. Here, one perfectly stylized slice of “fish,” lightly fried and speared with a sprig of chive floats in an excellent sweet and sour sauce. Diced red, green, and yellow peppers add festive color and a satisfying crunch to the dish.

An entrée not currently on the menu but worthy of mention is the fried tofu. Battered fresh and gently fried (not pre-packaged), this tofu is coated with a remarkable sauce, redolent with Chinese Five Spice, that elevates the dish from humble to special. Chinese greens and red bell pepper incorporate visual and textural appeal. For a chance to sample this entrée, call ahead or ask your server and graciously request what should be a regular menu item. All entrees are served with steamed white rice or brown jasmine rice. The jasmine rice is not only beautiful, but has a pleasing nutty flavor that complements virtually any dish.

For truly wonderful flavor adventure at Shanghai Bistro, begin your meal with a pot of fragrant rose tea, a blend of dried petals and stems, kept warm at your table with a tea light candle and frequent infusions of hot water. For an equally fragrant finish, order the Jasmine Tea Pudding for dessert. A simple but elegant treat for the jasmine tea devotee, this pudding is thickened using a vegetable gelatin (agar) for an unusual and soothing compliment to a spicy meal.

In addition to its public dining area, the Shanghai Bistro boasts a beautifully appointed private room that can accommodate eighteen for parties or meetings. Parking is conveniently available in the attached Discovery Bay Center parking garage. Reservations are recommended.