Tasty and Meatless | Restaurant Features

Ciao mein, one of several fine restaurants located in the twin towers of the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort and Spa, distinguishes itself by offering “collision cuisine,” a blend of Chinese and Italian traditions. Collision cuisine appears to be a slightly tongue in cheek riff on fusion cuisine, which became the f-word of the nineties, culinarily speaking. In its best and most pure form, fusion cuisine combines ingredients and flavorings of more than one culture or tradition in a single harmonious dish. At its worst moments, chefs seemed to be in competition to produce the most bizarre and often inedible combinations in dishes whose outrageousness was equaled only by their price points. Excellent fusion does exist in Hawaii today, and Ciao Mein is an example of it, especially in its vegetarian offerings, by serving both Asian and Italian inspired dishes but keeping its true “collision cuisine” to a few sophisticated seafood items.

While all of the dishes I sampled were excellent and relatively healthful, with only moderate amounts of oil, a quick review of the recipes, as provided by two very accommodating chefs, reveals that the vegetarian needs to be vigilant here. The menu descriptions do not always tell the whole story. For instance, the shiitake mushrooms in the Sesame Asparagus are reconstituted using a chicken broth. The Zucchini Marinati contains Romano cheese, but the menu does not reflect that. If you wish to avoid certain ingredients, it’s always best to question the wait staff.

If eggs and cheese are acceptable to your restaurant dining, the pale tomato-tinted Focaccia is a satisfying, if filling appetizer choice. Served with a yin and yang bowl of fiery red chili sauce and glow green pesto, the focaccia is practically a meal, and the accompaniments are very addictive.

Under its Nouvelle Cuisine umbrella, Ciao Mein offers both an Italian and a Chinese selection. The Farfalle Primaverilli consists of bow tie pasta (made with eggs), vegetable broth, fresh herbs, and a combination of spring vegetables such as blanched crisp-tender carrots, bell peppers, and broccoli. Separately marinated cherry or grape tomatoes tossed in at the last minute add a zesty kick and the only bit of oil in the entire dish. The lack of heavy sauces allows the taste of fresh vegetables and herbs to shine. A bit of the basil pesto can be mixed in at the table for an extra layer of flavor.

With is straw and shiitake mushrooms and vegetables, the Steamed Tofu is meaty-textured and flavorful. The steaming sauce contains a somewhat secret ingredient of Swiss origin that I am told is a Chinese kitchen staple. I’ve recently learned that this seasoning is also a Thai and Mexican kitchen standard. And no, it’s not hot chilis. That is a curious collision!

Ciao Mein’s menu lists two dishes under Starch and Vegetables that make excellent appetizers as well as sides. In fact, they are so good that one could make entrees of them. The pale green Zucchini Marinati are diagonally sliced zucchini squash broiled to wick away the moisture and create dense “steaks.” These hearty vegetable steaks are garnished with Romano cheese and paprika that, when combined and broiled, morph into tiny garnet-hued explosions of flavor.

Ciao Mein’s Szechuan Eggplant is a “Taste of Honolulu” first place winner, and very deserving it is. Scores of people seem to think that vegetarians must crave meat, so we are served a lot of “meaty” vegetables like eggplant. That tiresome nonsense aside, I have developed a new appreciation for this mysteriously purple nightshade vegetable. Now that I possess Ciao Mein’s recipe, I know its complex flavor secrets, but what really lifts this rendition above mere contenders is its skinless, firm texture and lack of appetite-destroying oil. The eggplant is fried, but so briefly and so perfectly that almost no oil is absorbed, leaving only the delicate flavors of Japanese eggplant and spicy sauce. A bowl of linguine with Ciao Mein’s pesto, a spot or two of hot chili sauce and a side of Szechuan Eggplant would make a very happy collision indeed!

Located on the third floor of the Hyatt Regency, Ewa Tower, Ciao Mein is open for dinner from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Please call for reservations. Parking is free with restaurant validation. Valet parking is the easiest option.