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LIKE TO WRITE AND EAT? Would you like to review restaurants in your area and help us discover magnificient meatless dishes? Email us at news@tastyandmeatless.com to become a Restaurant Reviewer for GOODnews. |
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FRONT PAGE | RESTAURANT REVIEW | HEALTHY ARTICLE | LIVING INSPIRATION | |
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Restaurant Review Meatless on the Move by Cyndi Rook
Marbella was awarded 2004 best new restaurant titles by both the “Honolulu Advertiser” and Honolulu Magazine, and dining there is indeed a treat. Excellent service combined with some possibly new and certainly exciting flavors are sure to make Marbella a Honolulu favorite. For a soup diva like me, the pureed lentils, aromatic with cumin and garnished with crispy carmelized onion merit the currently adventurous trip down Kapiolani Blvd. This soup may be the tastiest brown liquid I have ever sampled. Served hot and rather thin, it thickens as it cools, and is so deliciously and mysteriously seasoned that the lentil-obsessed may be tempted to order several bowls. Marbella’s dinner entrée menu lists only one plant-based option, the Vegetable Risotto, although the Couscous Royal can easily be served meatless for a second option. The Vegetable Risotto bears no resemblance to the beige blandness that passes for risotto in the typical Italian-American restaurant. You know, “Pass the pepper, please.” In this Egyptian version, red and green bell peppers, carrots, scallions, mushrooms, and lots of parsley render this dish stunning in comparison. Cracked black pepper keeps things lively and demands alert attentiveness to this dish. Acting in concert with the natural starch of the grain, a glisten of truffle oil negates the necessity of the standard parmesan cheese. For a dairy-free version, ask that it and the crème fraiche be withheld; you will not miss them. For the meatless diner, the real action is in the appetizer selections. Six of the nine possibilities are plant-based, so you have the option of creating an entire meal of appetizers (plus the Lentil Soup) that is balanced and very satisfying in its variety for about the cost of an entrée. A platter of four round fritters makes sharing the Falafel Treat feasible, but you will not want to. The falafels arrive at table hot and fresh, a tahini-based sauce on the side and garnished with a sweet and complex balsamic syrup. Perhaps only the meatless can truly appreciate the magic and possibilities of the lowly bean. These garbanzo treats are well-spiced, with a hint of a kick, crisp exteriors and soft chewy middles brightened with emerald green parsley. The tahini sauce coats the falafel with an extra layer of flavor and creaminess, and the balsamic garnish adds depth while allowing the underlying tastes to prevail. The Marbella Spanakopita is a beautifully constructed onion dome of filo pastry with layered chopped fresh steamed spinach, feta cheese, and a leek and yogurt sauce. The flavors are simple, clean and balanced. The feta accents rather than overpowers the green taste of the spinach. Perfectly sized for one, the Carmelized Onion Tart is topped with goat cheese and accompanied by olive tapenade (no anchovies) and peppery arugula. The miracle of the ubiquitous onion, of course, is the contrast of its raw pungency and cooked sweetness, the height of which is the aptly named carmelized onion, which here is rich and creamy, savory and sweet. This appetizer is so perfectly presented and satisfying that it could easily attain entrée status. While on the run in Waikiki between 11:30 AM and 2:00 PM, park in the 24 Hour Fitness garage and enjoy the make your own Greek Salad, falafel, hummus, tzatziki, and pita bread from the lunch buffet. In the evening, valet park and plan to spend some time enjoying this unique dining experience. The owner Magdy Matar, general manager Nicole Pinot and the excellent chefs and staff of Marbella will insure that your evening is a special one. |
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